exploring Slovenia

This summer our family holiday took us to Slovenia via rail from Norwich, via London, Brussels on a sleeper train to Salzburg, and our final train to the capital, Ljubljana. Once in the Slovenia we hired a car and spent a few nights in a few different regions to explore what the country had to offer. We ventured from high in the Julian Alps with the mighty Triglav mountain and lakes, to Idrija, famous for lace making and mining mercury, through the Karst region and towards and along the Croatian and Hungarian borders in the south and east.

We walked high in the mountains under blue skies and sometime above the ravens, through hillsides and woods of wild flowers, butterflies and birds. It was good to watch through binoculars from a neighbouring summit as climbers ascended Triglav, the highest mountain in the country and a few days later catch a glimpse across to the Adriatic Sea.

We enjoyed visiting towns including Ptuj, Idrija and Maribor, learning about local industries and histories. Ljubljana was a very manageable city, with walks beside the river and through the parks and gardens, a climb to the castle, wandering through pretty streets and catching site of the parliament building. We ate well throughout the fortnight, sampling national dishes of dumplings and meats, and for puddings the famous Gibanica cake and Bled cream cake. I can thoroughly recommend sampling the wines from across the country too.

Highlights of museums:

National Museum of Contemporary History of Slovenia in Ljubljana Fascinating introduction to Slovenian poet Srečko Kosovel, as well as C20th history or war and peace.

Slovenian Ethnographic Museum There was an excellent exhibition about Ukrainian traditional dress, as well as many rooms of Slovenian crafts, traditional trades and folk artefacts. The textiles was fabulous to see, with lace, embroidery, weaving and printing to admire.

Ptuj Clock Tower The longest wooden pendulum in action in Europe

Idrija for lace and mercury A town with a lace school and fascinating mercury mine and museum.

The weather was hot, above the average for a summer, with temperatures above 35 degrees Celsius for our last few days which was pretty hard going. I loved the Ljubljana weather system – a cold spray of water in the city centre.

We returned home with a sleeper train from Ljubljana to Stuttgart, on to Paris, London and home to Norwich. Here are a few shots of the beautiful country – I can thoroughly recommend it!

Colours from the Italian Alps

A grey-sky day slowly peeled back by mid-afternoon to reveal beautiful blue sky and high mountains with patches of snow. Following a slow late lunch of polenta and other local cuisine we prepped our bags and headed for the hills. Most people were coming down from the mountain as we started to climb, but we were well prepared, with tummies full ready for the walk upwards, not quite sure how far we’d get or how far we would see, but willing to make the most of the fine weather.

Walking in this sort of landscape can be overwhelming seeing as we live in the famously flat county of Norfolk. The vast scale of the mountains and the views stretching across the valley grabbed our attention initially. The purple greys and intense greens of the mountain sides played with the ever-shifting fluffy pale clouds. As we climbed along with the vastness of the mountain hues it was the pockets of colour, highlights of white, patches of sunshine yellow, pinks and mauves, acid green and deep crimsons and blue that competed as I put one foot in front of the other in the steep ascent. As we climbed new flowers became our companions beside the path, in the nooks and crannies of the rocks and high on the mountain pass.

Edelweiss and buttercups, scabious and azalea amongst plenty of others I was not familiar with. Although late in the summer there was so much colour to enjoy as there had been a very wet spell a few weeks before. Looking back up the valley as we drove back along the valley there was no sign of the colours we had walked amongst, but we knew they were there, ready for others to enjoy.

nature: holiday inspiration for the sketchbook

This holiday time has provided an opportunity to go to new places, see new things and return to the sketchbook just for fun. A week at Ilkley Moor enabled lots of time for walking and seeking out inspiration from the natural world, with distinct differences to the landscape I’m used to day to day. Up hill and down dale saw me amongst mosses and lichens, pebbles and boulders, grouse, larch trees, heathers and bogs … and even a fragment of pottery.

Rucksack pockets were filled with samples of treasure ready to investigate later. The process of drawing enables me to get to know an object, and by making several studies of each item I enjoy developing a stylised representation. I hope never to tire of the getting-to-know-you drawing process I have practised for thirty years.

By looking closely and seeing through drawing I can work out the essential elements of surface, form and texture to record, but also I love to play with the appearance of elevation and structure of three dimensional objects, such as the pebbles, to explore their new form as they appear on the page, as flat motifs.

The textures and colours of the items I gathered provide macro evidence of the vast landscape I walked through and connected with. As this was springtime there were pockets of fresh green bursting through winter foliage, demonstrating the natural cycle awakes again. The geology of Yorkshire provided variety in coloured greys and texture under hand and foot as we bouldered, scrambled and hiked, notable in contrast to the soft wet bogs and spongy moss beds amongst the heather.

Without going all John Ruskin about it, the natural world really is amazing, and full of inspiration for anyone inclined to notice. Anyway, back to the rather flatter fields of Norfolk …